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On Location: From the Big Screen to Your Next Trip

It only took watching Diane Lane speed down the Amalfi Coast road towards Positano to convince me to go to Southern Italy, and that particular scene in Under the Tuscan Sun still wows me every time. With an aerial view of the sparkling Mediterranean, the dramatic backdrop of sheer cliffs; the series of small sundrenched towns; and the windy road that weaves between – the entire scene had me sold. If anyone still didn’t know about Positano, they certainly would after watching that film.

From Roman Holiday to Eat Pray Love, I admit to being a sucker for romantic movies, especially when they involve travel.  But despite the sickly-sweet story lines of most, you have to love the dramatic scenery, and how the film teases you into thinking about a place in a whole new way. It’s fluffy films like this that are largely responsible for my trips to Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast – and next month I’ll be traveling to be Provence, inspired after seeing A Good Year.

Of course, many movies are based on books, but, when it comes to inspiring travel, movies do something to inspire that books just can’t. Seeing a visual appetizer, especially on the big screen, can be so powerful to give us a taste of what a destination might be like. It can whet our appetite, get us curious, and, if it’s really amazing, it can quickly float a location to the top of our bucket lists. Of course, these kinds of movies are perfect too for that rainy Sunday when all you want to do is transport yourself to Tuscany or Paris for a few hours.

The other common element I’ve found in these films is they often have an underlying theme of self-discovery. From Letters to Juliet to A Good Year, and especially Eat Pray Love, the characters all discover things about themselves as they go through their journey in the film. The same thing can happen to you when you travel in real life. You can be the lead character in your own movie, and going it alone can be even more enriching — I’m always inspired to sneak in another solo trip in when I see movies like this. Like the characters in these films, on or off camera, travel experiences like this can change your life.

Here are my top 10 picks for travel inspiration(or rainy Sunday nights), in no particular order:

  • Under the Tuscan Sun: Starring Diane Lane and based on the book by Frances Mayes (Tuscany, Amalfi Coast)
  • Eat Pray Love: Starring Julia Roberts and based on the book by Elizabeth Gilbert (Rome, Bali, India)
  • Letters to Juliet: Starring Amanda Seyfried, Vanessa Redgrave  (Verona, Tuscany)
  • The Tourist: Starring Angelina Jolie, Johnny Depp (Paris, Venice)
  • Mamma Mia: Starring Meryl Streep, Pierce Brosnan (Greece)
  • A Good Year: Starring Russell Crowe (Provence)
  • The Lord of the Rings: Starring Elijah Wood, Ian McKellen and based on the books by J. R. R. Tolkien (New Zealand)
  • My Life in Ruins: Starring Nia Vardalos (Greece)
  • Julie & Julia: Starring Meryl Streep, Stanley Tucci (Paris)
  • Roman Holiday: Starring Audrey Hepburn, Gregory Peck (Rome)

What movies have inspired you to travel? Let me know @mindyjoyce

Uncovering the Secrets of “The World’s Most Versatile Spirit” at Appleton Estate

Getting to know your rum goes way beyond sipping Piña Coladas and Mojitos at a fancy resort – especially when you have the chance to spend a few hours with Joy Spence, the Master Blender at Appleton Estate in Jamaica. Joy is a rum industry legend and has spent the last 31 years perfecting the leading rum brand in Jamaica.

Word of warning: If you’re coming from Montego Bay you can expect a slow and winding two-hour drive on small roads that are not meant for much traffic. As we traveled deep into the mountains we passed dozens of small villages, abandoned buildings and seemingly homeless dogs. Our driver told us that 75 percent of Jamaicans live like this – an important reminder of what island life is really like.

The steamy, hot air hit us as soon as we opened the door. This is afterall a microclimate ideal for growing sugarcane, and it’s very different from the coastal climate. Our rum experience started immediately as we chugged down the best rum punch I’ve ever had. It was gingery, a little sweet and golden brown. I couldn’t get anyone to reveal the recipe but I’m pretty sure it involved some molasses.

Not everyone gets to the royal treatment at Appleton and they do have normal tours going through, but we were lucky that Joy was available that day to take us behind the scenes. She ushered us into a barn to go through an in-depth presentation on the history of rum in Jamaica and what goes on at Appleton to make their rum unique. Well practiced, she chuckled as she rattled off statistics and all the historical details.

Rum and sugar production has been an important industry in Jamaica since 1749, when Appleton was founded. Today the country produces and exports 4.6 million gallons of rum each year between the six distilleries that operate there. Appleton is the largest producer with 60 percent of the Jamaican rum market.

According to Joy, the “world’s most versatile spirit” is perfect for cocktails, and also can be sipped like a fine single malts. As she went through examples of uses for vodka and Scotch and what they are best for, I realized it made sense. There isn’t another spirit that is perfect for mixing, and sipping straight – hell, even cooking. The challenge that Appleton has is that most people are not aware rums can fall into the “premium” category. It gets even more fascinating when you realize the advantages of the tropical aging process. Because of the hotter climate, the kind of maturation that would take 63 years in Scotland takes just 21 years in Jamaica. The 21-year old blend we tasted was deep amber in color, smoky with hints of orange, vanilla and oak, nice and complex – just like a fine single malt.

It all clicked for me when she explained that just like wine, terroir is incredibly important in rum. “There are few rums in the world can claim terroir,” she said. The unique combination of limestone soils, a unique microclimate, the long deep “cockpit” valley, and plenty of hot sunny days with daily afternoon showers is perfect for sugar cane. And, it grows like a weed here.

Joy gives us a taste of molasses

Next it was time to venture beyond the security gates and into the distillery to see the real-world application of what we’d just learned. What impressed me was the amount of work that goes into each part of the process, from growing sugar cane to distillation, blending and aging. It is a business that Appleton – and for that matter, the country of Jamaica – takes very seriously.

As we ventured beyond the security gates we were ushered into the distillery, which was packed with about a dozen pot stills. I stopped to sneak a photo, and Joy explained that using a combination of both pot and column stills allows them to maximize flavors and create different styles. After distillation the rum is pumped into tankers and transported to warehouses in Kingston where it is aged, blended and bottled.

They have a few barrels at the Estate “for historical purposes.” Even though aging doesn’t happen here, with all the tours going through, they still want to educate visitors on the aging process that produces the signature Appleton rum characteristics.

“It is pointless aging your rum in crap,” she said. “Appleton purchases number one select barrels used by Jack Daniels. Bourbon actually seasons the barrels for us.”

Fascinating facts about Jamaican rum and Appleton Estate:

• Appleton Estate is the oldest rum distillery in Jamaica and started producing rum in 1749
• One year aging in Jamaica will produce the same flavor intensity as three years aging in Scotland
• Age statements for whisky and Appleton Rum alike mean that the youngest part of the blend is that age – but with inconsistent international laws, this isn’t necessarily true for all rums
• Jamaica law does not allow any additives, unless the rum is classified as “flavored rum.” Many other countries are able to add 2.5 percent of additives into the blend, such as caramel color and vanilla flavoring
• “Rum” on a label means the spirit must be made from fermented products of sugar cane
• Jamaica is now pursuing a geographical indicator to protect the quality standards and usage of the country name in rum branding
• Most other rum manufacturers buy molasses. Appleton is a single estate so they control everything from sugar cane production to the bottling process
• There are six distillers in Jamaica that produce 4.6 million gallons of rum
• Wray & Nephew (Appleton & New Yarmouth) produce 60 percent of Jamaica’s rum
• It takes 10 tons of sugar cane to produce 30 cases of rum
• Appleton uses both pot and column stills and all of its rum is a blend of both types
• Appleton ages rum in American oak barrels (ex-Jack Daniels)
• Appleton has 240,000 barrels aging in warehouses around Kingston

The Appleton sugar cane fields

The sugar cane at sunset

Got questions about visiting Appleton Estate? Tweet @mindyjoyce

Dos and Don’ts for Planning Your Next Trip to Europe

I have to get away to Europe at least once a year, and for me, there is no better time to be there than June, July, August and September. I’ve just finished booking my next trip to France. If you’re a sun seeker like me, the extra amount you’ll pay to be there during peak season is worth every penny. And if you’re thinking about a summer getaway but are not sure where to start, here are a few quick tips for booking your own European escape:

Dos

  • Find airfare. You can forget about finding deals to Europe during these months, but there are a few tricks you can try. Consider flying into one city and out of the other. For the money (and time) it will cost you to backtrack to your arrival point, it may be cheaper to fly out of another airport and take a car or the train between points. You may also want to compare prices for flying early in the week to later; generally, Monday through Wednesday flight prices tend to be cheaper. Time of day also matters. If there are several flights, try flying at off-peak times. And remember, Europe does not celebrate Memorial Day, the Fourth of July or Labor Day, so when you’re finding it tough to get a reasonably priced flight within the U.S. at this time and you’re open to traveling a bit farther, you may just find a great opportunity to hop across the pond for just a bit more.
  • Get started in steps. Take booking your trip in stages. It’s like baking a cake: You need to have all the ingredients first. Start with some basic research on your travel destination then book your flight. I always compare sites but recently have found that by booking straight with the airlines I can get a fare comparable to any travel site.
  • Find your hotel. Know the general area where you want to stay (I was looking for Inns in Provence, for example), and start searching on TripAdvisor for inns with the highest ratings and a lot of feedback. From there, check out their own websites, any Michelin ratings and recommendations from past guests directly from the hotel. TripAdvisor is also very helpful with its Facebook connect overlay, and you can see places your friends have reviewed as well as find the exact location of the property in Google Maps. You can also see pricing on several hotel sites.
  • Comparison shop. Once you find a hotel you like, compare the hotel’s site with the pricing on booking engines. Often you can get a better deal if you go direct. But when I was booking my hotel in Antibes, I found that Hotels.com had the best rates. Sometimes these rates are pre-negotiated at a set exchange rate, or the booking site will have a limited number of rooms to sell at this price. With a little research, you will get the best deal.
  • Book your ride. Rent a car with A/C. I suffered in France one summer when I made the mistake of not getting it and will never let that happen again. Most cars you’ll rent in Europe are stick/manual transmission. If you cannot drive a stick then make sure you look specifically for an automatic.
  • Consider other transit, too. Trains can be faster and are often cheaper than a car rental, depending on where you’re going. Make sure you compare both in terms of time, convenience and cost. Remember that for car rentals you need to take into account the daily rate, tolls, gas (which is expensive in Europe) and insurance. Rail Europe has some great pricing on fares and rail passes that are already in USD, so these can be more affordable than you think.
  • Get some background. Before you start planning what to do during your trip, watch Rick Steve’s clips on the area. I love watching Rick’s clips to get a sense of an area and what the main highlights are. I also like Insight Guides for an easy-to-read guide to the region. If you’re planning to drive, pick up a copy of the Michelin map for the country you’re going to visit.
  • Put the icing on the cake. Once you have the main ingredients, then it’s time to top it off with a few extras. You might want to consider making some winery appointments or reservations for dinner at a Michelin-starred restaurant.

With my Citroen in Biarritz, France

Don’ts

  • Don’t delay booking flights. The flight prices will not get better.
  • Don’t overcommit yourself. Although distances may be smaller and you can be in another country very quickly, Europe is very dense. You want to allow yourself time to take in the little towns or wineries along the way.
  • If you are taking a GPS, don’t forget to download the map for the country you are traveling to. I took my GPS to France last year and could not use it because I didn’t realize I needed to do this. I ended up having a crash course in Basque signage. Not fun.
  • Don’t forget to check your passport for the expiration date.The last thing you want is to have to cancel or move your trip because you don’t have enough of a time window left on your passport.
  • Don’t limit how you can pay. For all of you American Express cardholders out there (and yes, I’m one), don’t forget that it is not as widely accepted in Europe. Make sure you have a Visa or MasterCard on you, since if you travel out of major cities, chances are they will not take Amex.

Wishing you safe travels to Europe, or wherever this summer takes you!

Tell me your Europe travel tips here on my blog, or tweet to me @mindyjoyce

Inside Palmaz, the Winery Hidden Within Napa’s Mt. George

As I drove up to Palmaz Vineyards, I was pretty excited.  Getting to go to these wineries as part of my job is definitely a perk. But this visit was particularly exciting — I had a meeting with Florencia Palmaz, daughter of the owner, Julio Palmaz. The winery is situated in Mt. George, east of Napa, just north of American Canyon. That’s right, in Mt. George.

After a brief, “Yes, Ms. Joyce. Welcome to Palmaz” at the security gate, I drove up the steep incline with vines on either side to near the top of the hill to meet Florencia in the main building.

What intrigued me to start with was that the winery is actually carved inside a mountain. There really isn’t anything to see from the outside. Also, it is built specifically to incorporate an innovative gravity-flow method in its winemaking process. The grapes travel from the first floor to the bottom floors in a process that is gentler on them, and tends to better hold the flavors of the fruit. This kind of thing is expensive — and with everything highly computerized, it combines the concepts of quality Old World winemaking with sparkling new equipment and sophisticated technology.

It would have been easier to build an ordinary winery, of course, but the Palmaz family seems to like putting a scientific and technological spin on things. Julio Palmaz, after all, is a doctor of vascular radiology who became very wealthy after inventing the Palmaz-Schatz Stent, which is now used in operations on patients with coronary heart disease.

View of the Fermentation Dome from the balcony

Florencia met me in the cool lobby and explained the family history as we walked into the winery. Even the lobby is very tranquil, with only a few visitors being granted access at a time, and the Palmazes personally taking small groups through, it’s a very personal experience. The winery is actually made up of a series of caves and tunnels on several levels that span the height of an 18-story building. Looking down from the balcony over the fermentation tanks below will give you an impressive view, as will the touch screen computers on the walls that seem to be in control of every detail.

A computer quietly monitors the fermentation tanks

Being a student of biology herself, Florencia is very detail oriented and can explain the most complex processes, down to what goes on at the molecular level in the winemaking process. If it hasn’t hit you already, chatting with Florencia you will quickly realize how complex the chemistry is, and the lengths that winemakers will go to to ensure the quality of the wine in order to produce the perfect Cab. Every single detail you can imagine, from the way the barrels are cleaned, to the specific forest in France they are from, to the winemaking process itself, gives you an understanding why this business is expensive — and why their Cabernet commands $80 plus a bottle.  After our tour, I sat in Florencia’s office and we tasted through a flight, paired with a lovely selection of small bites. Though I’d just seen the detailed care and attention that went into it, I was still very impressed. And if that didn’t blow my mind, I also toured their collection of vintage Porsches and, of course, the vintage Land Rover. I left fascinated, excited about my new discovery, and eager to tell all my friends about the winery experience that has so far, topped my list.

New French Oak barrels line endless tunnels inside the mountain

Have your own travel tips to share? Tweet @MindyJoyce

A Hop Down Under is Easier Than You Think

When I was 18, my parents sent me away to Australia on a two-week Rotary exchange. It wasn’t really that bad, and I went willingly — Australia is, of course, an easy three-hour hop across the pond when you live in New Zealand. At that point in my life, I’d already been to “Aussie” a few times, but this first solo trip was something special. I stayed with a family just outside Melbourne in a town called Ballarat. Waking up to the smell of eucalyptus, the laughing kookaburra and nightly snorting koalas hanging out in the gum trees was a true Aussie experience.

Every trip I’ve taken to Australia since then has been remarkable, and that is saying something coming from a Kiwi — the friendly rivalry between the countries is alive and well, and I’ll probably take a stab at the Aussies any chance I get. From diving on the Great Barrier Reef to having dinner under the stars at Ayers Rock, the country is diverse, topped with its relaxed lifestyle and teeming with colorful Aussie characters, you’re guaranteed a good time, once you get there.

Being in the travel business, hundreds of people at this point have told me they’ve “always wanted to go,” but the distance to the Land Down Under seems overwhelming to many Americans. I’ve found, however, that this tends to be more of a mindset, because when you think about how quickly people jump on flights to Singapore, London, Rome or Dubai, it makes me wonder if it’s more about flying south than east or west.

To clear things up, here are some flight times.

  • Los Angeles to Sydney: 14 hours
  • Los Angeles to Rome: 13 hours
  • New York to Hong Kong: 16 hours
  • New York to Johannesburg: 16 hours
  • Los Angeles to Dubai: 16½ hours
  • Los Angeles to Bangkok: 17½ hours
  • Los Angeles to Singapore: 18½ hours (also known as the longest flight in the world)

Since living in the U.S., I’ve probably taken about 50 flights to either New Zealand or Australia. The big differences you have with these flights are the aircraft and inflight service. The A380 used on many of Qantas’s Los Angeles to Sydney services is known as the most advanced aircraft ever built (quieter cabin, double-decker configuration, higher pressurization, wide body, new wing designs). It is not like being crammed up on a U.S. domestic flight. No matter which airline you choose to fly Down Under, what you get inside the cabin (yes, I’m talking about coach) is a big step up from any airline you’ll fly here in the States — ergonomic seats, personal on-demand entertainment sets, three meals, larger screens on seat backs … and then there’s the complimentary wine, so you can get a head start on great Aussie reds on the flight down. If you’re a Business or First flier, then get ready for a top-class experience.  There are not that many times you’ll get to fly on such a sophisticated aircraft, even to Europe.

Have your own travel tips to share? Tweet @MindyJoyce

5 Tips from Michael Mondavi’s Winemaking Team

So many people tell me they want to make their own wine, and while there are a lot of wineries that will let you play with blending, there’s nothing like learning from some of the best.   One of  the ones I recommend for this is at Michael Mondavi Family Estate.  In their winemaker program you’ll learn to make incredible California wine, and you’ll go home with two cases of your own creation.

With a robust team consisting of a winemaker (Rob Mondavi Jr.), associate winemaker, production manager, information specialist, and five cellar workers – the estate produces six different brands and more than 25 wines. With all that work, they offer a rare wealth of knowledge.

Here are five winemaking tips the Mondavi team shared with me. Some of these might even come in handy when you taste as well:

  1. Rinse the glass with a splash of the wine before tasting, as the glass may impart other aromas and/or flavors. And rinsing with the wine itself means it won’t get watered down.
  2. Always give a minute (or more) between tastes so you have a chance to experience the finish fully. You may discover something interesting later in the finish.
  3. Keep your palate alert. If you are blending, taste each wine first, and then reverse the order. For instance, if you have five different Cabs to blend, taste through them singly first, one through five, then taste five through one. This way, you won’t have prejudice for or against a certain blend due to carryover.
  4. Blend the ones you like together to see if they act synergistically, or antagonistically. Compare and contrast. Just remember that those flavors you’re experiencing aren’t linear with wine. For instance, adding twice as much isn’t necessarily going to make something taste twice as good or bad. Try lots of different combinations.
  5. There is no predicting, but there is forgetting. Above all, take notes.

When you graduate to a more advanced level of winemaking, you’ll also face more challenges. I asked Jeanette Schandelmier, Associate Winemaker & Quality Control Manager at MMFE, what most people don’t realize about the winemaking process, and she offered up some information relevant to winemakers and wine drinkers alike:

“Most wine goes through two fermentations, alcoholic and malolactic. During alcoholic fermentation the sugar is changed into alcohol and CO2 by yeast. During malolactic fermentation, malic acid is changed into lactic acid, diacetyl and CO2. Diacetyl is the chemical that makes butter taste buttery, and, by extension, that makes wine taste buttery. Most Chardonnay goes through malolactic fermentation while most Sauvignon Blanc does not – so no surprise, Chardonnay is often called buttery but not SB.

“Maybe everyone knows, but Cabernet Sauvignon is normally aged in barrels (after both fermentations are complete). But they may not know that here it’s also “SO2’d and topped” monthly. That means every barrel comes down, gets scrubbed, opened, sulfur added, filled to the tippity-top and closed back up. Some bad bugs (bacteria) such as acetobacter, which causes wine to turn into vinegar, is an obligate aerobe. This means if there is no oxygen around, it can’t multiply and wreck the wine. Some other bad bugs hate sulfur. Thus, if you fill up the barrel all the way, no air can get in there, and if you keep the sulfur at the right level as well, no bugs.”

Do you have specific questions for the Michael Mondavi Winemaking team? Post them here or send them to me via Twitter @mindyjoyce

Happy winemaking!

Sports Worth Traveling For

I cannot tell you how many times I’ve watched the Tour de France and dreamed of one day going there myself. The event is basically a three-week tourism commercial for the entire country of France, and it certainly gets me thinking about my next trip every time. I’m a sucker for nice scenery, especially when it comes to the French Alps and small towns in wine country. One year, I visited just after the race had finished and was amazed to see the small villages were still buzzing about “Le Tour” and littered with memorabilia and remnants of the race. The impact that this cycle race has on the country is incredible, but actually being there as a visitor in July is life changing. Whether you’re a cycling fanatic or just casually interested, it’s an incredibly lively time to experience France.

In my experience, people remember three things about their vacations: the food, the people and the unique experiences. Seeing the racers speed past at an event like Le Tour brings you into the energy and excitement, and let’s you feel like a part of something big. Trips like this live on in your mind for the rest of your life.

It can be a little more complicated and expensive to travel during these times, but if you’re like me and have a bucket list of places you know you want to visit, then you can avoid these issues by planning ahead.

For wine lovers, big events can be an ideal way to time your trip around your passions – you can enjoy an uncommonly memorable vacation while experiencing destination wine regions.

Beyond Le Tour, though, there are several other destination events perfect for wine lovers. One that is close to my heart is the America’s Cup. As a kid growing up in New Zealand, sailing and other boating activities were a regular part of my lifestyle. And as San Francisco prepares for worldwide attention as the host of the Cup and preceding Louis Vuitton Cup in August and September of next year, it’s already time to start thinking about your own trip. With the Napa Valley is listed as the “official wine region” of the Cup, one thing is for certain – San Francisco and the Napa Valley will be on everyone’s radar next summer. Start planning your trips now.

If you want to start planning your travel itinerary now, here are some major events on my radar. And if not this year, maybe next!

Grand Prix, Monaco                                May 24-27, 2012
French Open, Paris                                  May 27-June 10, 2012
Tour de France, France                           June 30-July 22, 2012
Summer Olympics, London                    July 27-Aug. 12, 2012
US Open, New York                                   August – September 2012
Louis Vuitton Cup, San Francisco         July 4-Sept. 1, 2013
America’s Cup Finals, San Francisco    Sept. 7-22, 2013

Cheers and happy travels!

Mindy

Share your travel tips with me on Twitter @MindyJoyce

Start planning your own spring fling to Europe…

I’ve been planning my own spring fling to Europe, and when hunting for flights, I was once again reminded why the “shoulder” seasons of spring and fall are the best times to travel. Summer is peak season for Europe, so once you get to June, it gets much harder to find great deals. Airfare is much more affordable for April through mid-May, and now is the time to act on getting those tickets.

There are lots of added benefits to springtime travel: shorter lines at attractions, beautiful blooming flowers, open-air markets full of vibrant veggies. And chances are you’ll enjoy much better weather. Because Europeans tend to travel in July and August, summertime travel can mean running into lots of closed businesses; in the spring, that’s not an issue.

You’ll find many airlines are now showing fare sales up to mid May, so move quickly if you want to head west and get a great fare. Here are some tips to plan your own Spring Fling:

Book your flight:

Start looking at flights now and book early. Sign up for fare alerts and research a variety of sources: travel search sites, consolidators and airlines themselves. Check out deal sites to see which airlines have the best deals for the time frame you want to go.

Consider flying in and out of different cities. This is normally a no-no for saving money on fares, but if you think about your entire itinerary and where you are traveling to, it might make sense and actually save you money. For example, I just booked a flight from New York to Paris, and from Nice back to New York. This will end up saving me a day of travel, another night’s hotel in Paris and the cost of another rail ticket. The tickets are slightly more expensive, but overall it’s a significant savings.

Do your research:

Check out bookstores. I always like to buy one or two guidebooks as well as look for any history or literature on the area. In New York, I recommend visiting Idlewild Books for an incredible selection. You can also check out sites such as Amazon. And check iTunes for travel podcasts and audio books; even if you don’t have time to pore over travel guides, you can listen through your morning commute.

Sign up for a language class. Start the excitement early, and get prepared to go off the beaten path with some basic words and phrases. You’ll be a lot more confident in your travels if you start just a few months before you go. If you can’t make it to a class, check back on iTunes for downloads of travel phrases.

Look at travel videos. TV shows and videos of the area will help you get a good sense of the area and decide where to spend your time. I always check out Rick Steves’ clips on regions in Europe (you can find all of his episodes free on Hulu). I also love Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations and The Layover. Check out Travel Channel or rent the DVDs on Netflix.

Get recommendations from your friends. Check out TripAdvisor, and see if any of your friends have been to the destination. When you sign into the site with Facebook you can quickly see who has been there and ask them for recommendations.

Got more tips to share or want to ask me a travel question? Find me on Twitter @mindyjoyce.

Expert tips on visiting Bordeaux

I can’t curate great trips without the help of experts.  I’ve recently had the pleasure of working with Caroline Matthews of Uncorked Wine Tours in Bordeaux.  Here are some of the biggest questions people ask about Bordeaux and what Caroline had to say: 

Do you recommend making appointments before visiting châteaus? 

With more than 8,000 châteaus in the Bordeaux wine region, you might think that there is no shortage of places to visit and that winemaking properties will welcome with open arms anyone who happens to drop by. You’d be wrong. Although some properties provide tours and tastings, the majority require appointments, and many admit only professionals who work in the wine trade or those “in the know.”

It’s not that the average Bordelais château owner or manager is unfriendly, but that they have very different standards. A large percentage of châteaus simply don’t have to worry about selling their wine – local wine merchants shoulder that responsibility. And many don’t have the staff and facilities to accommodate many visits, so they often limit tours to two to four per day, often with a maximum of 15 people. Some of the top châteaus limit access to maintain a level of exclusivity.

The biggest mistake most people make is thinking that the châteaus are open on weekends. Although some properties do offer visits on Saturdays during the summer, Sunday appointments are rare. To avoid disappointment, plan to take your tours on weekdays.

Will châteaus open for two people, or is it necessary to visit as part of a larger group?

Those châteaus that offer visits are generally happy to make appointments for couples or small groups, but you may have to pay extra for the privilege or join another group of visitors. Each château has its own policy, however, and some are happy to conduct a private visit for two people.

What is the best way to decide which châteaus to visit? 

The easiest answer is to work with local wine tour company. If you have the time and inclination, you can also check out the websites of the châteaus that pique your interest, or request lists from the local tourist office (e.g. for St.-Émilion on the Right Bank) of the area you plan to visit.

At least one a year, châteaus in the main Bordeaux wine regions open their doors to visitors. These “Portes Ouvertes” weekends do not require appointments, but some of the tours are in French only.

How many châteaus are open to tasting?  

The number of properties open to visitors can vary depending on the time of year. Some are closed during harvest or in August during the traditional French summer holiday season.

As a rule of thumb, you should expect to make an appointment for any château you wish to visit.

How far in advance do we need to book tasting appointments?

For some properties, you can never book far enough in advance. During the high season from April to October, it’s wise to book at least two weeks before your planned visit.

Am I going to have a problem if I don’t speak French? 

The châteaus that are open to visitors will have English-speakers on staff, so it should not pose a problem “si vous ne parlez pas le français.” You may, however, encounter a problem if your satellite navigation fails to locate the winery and you need to ask for directions.

Is there any kind of special etiquette for wine tasting in Bordeaux or France generally?

General good manners apply to visiting a château. Arriving at the appointed time and turning your phone to silent are <i>musts</i>. With regard to attire, shorts and jeans should be avoided even in the warm months, but smart casual clothing is appropriate.

Spittoons are on hand in château tasting rooms. Although using them is not obligatory, you might want to appoint a designated driver in advance if you opt not to use them. Police patrol the roads of the wine routes for a reason.

What is the biggest difference between visiting wineries in Bordeaux and those in the U.S.?

Many U.S. wineries in areas such as California have made a conscious decision to open their doors to tourists. They earn revenue from providing tours, and selling wine and related accessories in their gift shops.

In Bordeaux, châteaus that have staff fully dedicated to wine tourism activities and that sell wine and gifts are in the minority. This is unlikely to change radically in the near future, although some properties are recognizing that wine tourism can be a source of income in its own right and therefore and moving toward investing in the activity.

One final point is that not all châteaus have a beautiful building on the property; château is the equivalent of winery, and not understanding that fact can sometimes result in disappointment – especially when Château X turns out to be a modern shed!

Have travel questions? Tweet @MindyJoyce

All images are courtesy of Caroline Matthews at Bordeaux Uncorked

A survival guide for the single traveler

Some things are better for singles. And believe it or not, travel can be one of them. If you’re single this Valentine’s Day, it’s the perfect time to look into flying solo, literally. I’ve seen too many people decide that because they don’t have anyone to go with, their dream vacation has to wait. But read on – if you don’t have someone to come along, you can have an even better trip.

My trips to the Amalfi Coast and Northern Spain were, hands down, the best travel experiences I’ve ever had – and I went by myself. What made my solo travel so great? I met more locals, learned more about the culture, was forced to speak the language and made my own schedule. But even more than this, I gained a real sense of self-sufficiency and freedom by doing it on my own. It’s hard to put a price on that, and it wouldn’t come easily from a trip for two.

For those of you ready to get out of your comfort zone, here are some tips to keep in mind:

• Plan trips around your passions. When opposites attract, it’s almost impossible to plan a trip both will enjoy. So this is your chance to indulge in something you’re passionate about without having to worry about keeping someone else entertained. Cooking schools, wine classes, golf coaching and biking trips are all things you can do solo, and you can get more out of them this way.

• Pack only what you can carry. You never know when you’ll have to haul your bags yourself, so be prepared. Take only bags that you can carry all at one time, and use carry-on-size suitcases with wheels. Try to pack as lightly as possible.

• Ask for an upgrade – you’re more likely to get it. Frequent fliers rejoice! It is much easier to get an upgrade by yourself than as a couple. And if you’re still traveling in coach – even if you already have a seat assignment – ask the gate agent if there are any parts of the plane with empty seats – you may just get a row to yourself.

• Join a walking tour on your first day in the city. I’ve found that walking tours are a great way to meet people and get acclimatized to the city. And because these last only a few hours, you don’t run the risk of getting stuck with a weeklong tour group you may not otherwise choose to hang out with.

• Do not order room service. This is a big no-no in my book. Make sure you sit at bars whenever possible, and make friends with the bartender. Alternately, make sure you have a good book on you at all times, and find a café with outdoor seating. In places like Paris, this is a great opportunity for meeting people and taking in the city.

• Take advantage of single rates at hotels. Many tour companies and cruise lines will ask you to pay the dreaded single supplement – if you are booking a group tour, this is completely normal if you want your own room. However, hotels are a different story. If you are booking a room abroad, single rooms are often priced lower than doubles. Be sure to ask about this.

• Eat what you want, when you want. When no one else is calling the shots on which restaurants to go to and when to eat, you have a great chance to explore the places you want to try. And I always recommend stopping for those gelatos and espressos. Little treats during the day keeps the energy level up and give you more opportunities to observe the local way of life.

• Take a guided wine-tasting tour. Not only will you meet other likeminded people, but you’ll also avoid driving and be able to make the most of the tasting appointments.

• Try an overnight getaway first. If the thought of a long-haul trip is still a bit scary, try a weekend or an overnight to warm yourself up to it.

If you’re home alone on Valentine’s Day and pondering your single life, take it as a reminder that you need to put your travel plans in gear. Put your thinking cap on. and let me know what’s on your travel wish list@mindyjoyce.

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